Monday, November 29, 2010

Chang Time

Happy Belated thanksgiving,
    Hope you gorged yourself silly...the American way...super size me. Me and Mel had quite a proper feast ourselves thank you for asking. We made buddies with the manager of a restaurant out here called Morava (San Deigo native owned) who, the absolute doll that he is, had the cooks prepare us a pseudo-Thanksgiving dinner. We dined on pumpkin soup, roasted chicken potatoes, veggies, yams, blueberry sauce and gravy.... you get it. I needn't elaborate more. We're stationed in Koh Tao right now, an island in Thailand, and have nestled ourselves in here for the past 9 days...more than we anticipated but I will explain later.
   The chronological maven I am, I would like to begin this post giving you the freshest deets on our time on Koh Pha-Ngan. We came to the island just in time for the Full-moon party (high-five). We prudently decided on a period of rest and relaxation leading up to the debauchery that would undoubtedly follow, so the first 3 days there we got ourselves situated in a nice little collection of family run bungalows off the beach called the yogurt house (no they did not have a frozen yogurt shop your guess is as good as mine as to the story behind the name). We went to the beach our first day but unfortunately hit a bout of rain the next couple and spent our time walking around Hat Rin, perusing for gifts and souvenirs. That tropical rain they tell you about....first hand account. As we stood outside a store after dinner I could hear and see a mere few feet in front of us, a wall of rain rushing nearer and nearer. Bizarre.
    And then the sun came out right in time, maybe he was a little resentful at all the attention his rival Mr. Moon would be getting that night. We ate our breaky and headed for the beach along with the other Hat Rinners. All along the beach the hotels and bars had erected these huge stages and towering signs in preparation for the night. For about 10 minutes the resort next door turned on some tunes. BASS..... Deadmau5 filled the air and you could feel the beat. Everyone perked up. As corny as it sounds I knew "tonight's gonna be a good night" (sorry I had to). We overheard a group behind us without the typical Australian accent talking about "icing". Americans! Well turns out they were Canadians, our Northamerican brethren and a pair of sassy Swiss sisters. Wow talk about the fates aligning. We ended up hanging out with them all day and deciding to meet up for dinner and go out together. Full-Moon posse assemble! I'm confident my pals at home would approve the caliber of this crowd. I think I may have a whole new vocabulary thanks to Hein and Matt ( prove it, beat it nerd, yeah duh duh yeah). Some Chang's came out and a few people got iced that nooner.
     Me and Mel picked up our full moon attire, there are literally hundreds of shirts, shorts, paint, necklaces, and sweatbands all in a myriad of neon colors sold throughout Hat Rin. SO many choices....we double iced Matt on the beach and went to a lovely little lounge called Nicks for dinner and mojitios and went to pick up a bucket (yes stands on the streets mix a literal sand castle building bucket cocktail for mooners to imbibe) and get ready at the hotel. Some tunes, dancing, and artistic body paint followed (Lara, thank you for the sleeve) and we eventually cruised down to the beach. Lights, music, fire, slides, buckets, neon hoards of people. I don't think I've ever seen anything like it. We danced all night long, and I mean until the sun came up. One of the coolest experiences ever. What a trip. So that was Pha-Ngan
    Koh Tao, neighbor to Pha-Ngan is well known as the scuba diving capital in Thailand. There are two main towns, Mae Hadd where our dive resort was located, and Sairee. Koh Tao has nailed it on balancing the fine line between touristy and islandy. It still has a natural untouched yet comfortable feel. We were recommended to get our Open Water PADI at Crystal Dive Resort, best decision ever. The place is awesome, its right on the beach and has a great little restaurant next door and a bar and outdoor patio everyone hangs out at every night to grab a beer or watch dive videos at. The course was 4 days long, one in the classroom, one in the pool, and two in the ocean. I originally planned to get my Open Water as a check on the list, just to say I did. Jokes on me, we ended up staying another 2 days to get our advanced. Undoubtedly a huge part of this had to do with our awesome group. We had the most lovely instructor, Tina, two Norwegian lovebirds Thomas and Victoria and a Swedish pair Anna and Hannah. We were all super nervous at the start especially when it came to tests involving taking off your mask and clearing the water out of it, all while underwater. But once we all got in the ocean it seemed to fall into place. Its just the most unbelievably calming experience to be that deep underwater. My two favorite in our advanced course were the night dive (all you can see is whatever your flashlight is pointing at) and a deep dive to 30 meters (about 100 feet). I've never seen phosphorescence before but on our night dive as we turned off our lights and moved our hands little green lights flickered all around us. Really magical stuff. We had an interesting dive straight out of The Perfect Storm. Just absolutely terrifying swells lifting us huge distances out of the water at the surface. I'm still suffering from some equalization issues. I feel like I have a pillow over my ears. Totally worth it.
    The whole diver lifestyle, as simple yet toiling as it is, pulls some strings in me though. The whole Crystal team is like one big family. Sure they live on an island where flushless toilets are standard, hot water showers are a luxury, and salty and wet is a way of life but the simplicity of it all and the wonderful people they're surrounded with every day and the passion they have for diving is really something special. We've stayed an extra couple of days there to celebrate with Team-O a big Finish bear of a man who helped us on our first dive and is graduating to be a Master Diver tonight. Unfortunately its been raining like crazy here. So much for our tans....wah wah wahhhh. But we're headed to Bali on the 5th and its supposed to be great weather over thar. On our stop over in Bangkok we're planning to hit the cinema for a little Harry Potter action. I'm ecstatic. Shout out to my friends and family at home Katie (skype check!), Barker, Blair, Gevrina (great videos), Brueland, James, Klimmy, Brookie, Thomas, Ashkan, Denys, KK, BFG, Aud Nat and Bri,  Mama, Farj, Auntie Cher and Val, Nana, if I missed anyone my dearest appologies. Hope you had a wonderful holiday. Drink a Starbucks holiday beverage for me. Thanks.
The always graceful and never awkward,
King
    

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

The Backpacker Way

Sawadee Kah,
   That's Thai for hello. I'm in Bangkok! My 3rd day here after some time spent in Cambodia which I'll first and foremost fill you darlings in on. Well after a night train from hell ride, the sequel, this one featuring the chainsaw like wailing snores of the petite little Vietnamese man on the bunk next to me (I was torn between laughing at the sheer absurdity of it or crying because it was 4 am) we arrived in Ho Chi Mihn and hopped onto a six hour bus ride to Phnom Phen where we stayed the night. THEN we got on another bus ride to Siam Reap (6 hours), thankfully our desired destination. We ended up saving a lot of cash monies traveling this way. Was it worth it? Yeah....I don't know still. I think I loved Cambodia the second we arrived. How Angelina Jolie of me right? I don't know exactly how to share it via text but I can only emphatically recommend everyone to go and see the county for themselves. They are obviously a developing country and a lot of the people are extremely poor. They have also quite recently gone through a horrible civil war during the 70's and 80's during which millions were brutally killed and families were torn apart. I read a memoir called Lucky Child by Luong Ung before we got there just to gain a bit of knowledge on Cambodia's past. The people are incredibly welcoming and warm and the landscape is breathtaking. We took two days to tour several of Cambodia's temples including Angkor Wat (one of the seven wonders of the world), Bantey Srei, Prasat Bayon, and Angor Thom. Our tour guide was somewhat of a photograph savant and constantly directed us to point our cameras towards this temple and that "where the light is hitting the stones just right. A Kodak spot. Hurry and take one while there's no people". I have more than enough shots thanks to our buddy.
    The Psar Chaa area of Siam Reap is a triangular area in the center of town that has hundreds of restaurants, bars, massage parlors, souvenir shops, basically a tourist mecca. We spent a lot of our nights here and ate some incredible meals. We ate a Cambodian barbecue, quite similar to the one we had in Laos where you cook the meat and soup on a grill in front of you minus a few highly unusual ingredients. Yep.....we did it. Me and Mel two of the most vegetarian friendly, raw food eating, albeit un-picky eaters. We grilled ourselves up some snake, alligator and frog legs for dinner (they came to us raw and uncooked). No big deal. The snake had to be my least favorite, very muscular, and uh.....chewy.
   We also treated ourselves to a couple massages after our arduous tour days, they were 4$ an hour, can you blame us? One of the funnest nights we've had so far was on Pub Street at the infamous Angkor What? one of the original backpacker bars on the street. We started of innocently enough ordering a beer and watching the dance floor from  the sidelines. One local, clad in an all white ensemble was really groovin. It was like a magnetic force, I told Mel we HAD TO dance with him. After 15 minutes we'd had enough and it was time to dance. Some PRIME, and I mean FANTASTIC jams came on in the process got adopted into a large group of Australian volunteers, our age who were working in Siam Reap. They were some of the most wonderful people we've met so far and we ripped up the dance floor with them all night long, dancing on the tables, on the floor, breaking into dance circles. We ended up meeting up with them the next night for a reunion and passed around our cameras which captured some amazing absolutely sweaty pictures from that night.
    It was quite sad leaving Cambodia but I know I'll return down the road. Anyone want to join?  Since we've arrived in Bangkok we've eaten at street stalls, seen the reclining Buddha and walked up and down Koh San road, the infamous backpacker alley, more then 5 times. Last night we took the tram down to eat one of the spiciest meals Ive ever had in my life and stopped into the Saxophone Pub and Restaurant to watch some live jazz over a drink. Music never ceases to amaze me! The way it transcends cultures, its really a beautiful thing. The two sets were great. We saw some truly talented musicians doing their thing, in the front row. The second band's guitarist, an older man with a respectable mustache, kept saying I love you, and it wasn't until the second time around me and Mel realized the comment was directed to us. They said some stuff in Thai and the crowd laughed, I can only imagine.
    I really feel like I'm channeling my inner backpacker over here. I bought some Cambodia pants ( the name is quite fitting) and donned them on backpacker alley yesterday. I hope I can get away with these at home, but knowing my friends I'm sure I'll get some grief. Mom, I have this feeling you'll end up stealing them from me..... I read The Beach by Alex Garland, I don't know if I already told you all but it takes place in Thailand starting on Koh San road, where the characters meet and travel to Koh Samui, "The Beach", and Koh Phangan. What a trip actually traveling to these places after experiencing them through the novel. Definitely a dark book but a really great plot and message, the newest on the reading list for those Christina's book clubbers. We're leaving to the southern peninsula tomorrow morning and staying on Koh Phangan for the first 3 days just in time to catch the full moon party. I'm really looking forward to writing about that one, just as much as I'm looking forward to the neon body paint. With that said.....adios muchachos.
-King

Monday, November 8, 2010

Eden

Oy Vey,
So first off let me relieve the awkward tension by profusely apologizing for my lack of updates as of late. My B. I do have quite a few news worthy bits and pieces to share. I've left Hanoi for good and am just finishing our central Vietnam excursion this afternoon.
 - Our trip to Sapa was fantastic! We took the night train and arrived early in the morning to Lao Chi, an hour ride to our hotel up a windy mountain road. We've been getting hot and humid up in Hanoi so it was a bit of a shock when we jumped off the train into the freezing cold and misty air. Our trip, booked through the hotel, included a night in Sapa and a tour of the Cat Cat village day 1, a tour of Lao Chi Tavan village and a night in a bungalow at the Hmong Mountain Retreat Day 2, and a cooking class our last day.
- All meals were included and we took advantage of this feasting like Kings on breakfasts such as sweet corn and bacon pancakes, pumpkin chocolate muffins, exquisite vegetable and tofu dishes, and one of my favorites, the pumpkin burger.
- The rooms and the staff were so incredibly accommodating and friendly.... Our tour guides for both treks were girls our age who we had a wonderful time talking to and learned a lot about Sapa and the local Hmong tribes from. I admittedly cast a sweeping stereotype on the Hmong village women, who dress in their respective colorful tribal wear, as probably being very conservative, quiet, and very traditional. It was a welcome surprise to meet two girls who were just as free spirited and outgoing as our friends back home. We met up with one of them for a drink and some karaoke our first night and had a blast.
-The scenery there was awe inspiring. There are waterfalls and fresh streams everywhere and the mountains have been molded into tiered terraces to promote rice farming. It was green and lush everywhere you looked and we got some amazing views along the way. One highlight was the village children playing Hulk Hulgan on a "sleeping " water buff-allow on the side of the road (I think he was dying, but they were having a blast).
- I felt like Carry in Sex and the City at our private mountain bungalow. Wow. Wow. There were six rooms situated in the middle of no where on the top of the mountain overlooking the valley and river. We were the only ones at the hotel! They had a communal living room area which was decorated with local textiles where we sat and ate our dinner over a glass of wine. What a life....
- Unfortunately Mel got sick our last night and for the remainder of that week (we had just discussed THAT NIGHT how it was amazing neither of us had come down with anything. Spoke too soon?)

-Our last week in Hanoi we stayed in a lot and tried to nurse Mel back to health before we departed. We got on another night train to Hue....BUHM BUHM BUHM..... the night train from hell. This was about 5 notches downgrade from our previous train with dim lighting....little cockroaches scurrying everywhere....dirty uncleaned bed sheets...ewwwww. Thank god for sleep sacks, what a nightmare.We planned to spend the day in Hue, a day during which it unfortunately was pouring rain....but like the good little travelers we are we didn't let the rain get the best of us and went out to take a tour of the Citadel, the ancient city within Hue.
-Our ponchos broke about ten minutes into the walk and we finally submitted to the bike tour salesmen who offered to take us around the citadel in a covered bike, stopping to take pictures and telling us relevant information along the way. 1968 the Americans bombed Hue during the Tet Offensive on the Vietnamese New Year. We got to see the remnants of bunkers set up during the fighting in the city and the War Museum. It was eye opening seeing a museum from the opposite perspective which described us as the invaders. Me and Mel had quite a bit of fodder for conversation that day on the Vietnam war, what we learn in school, and education in America in general.
- We've been in Hoi An, the most charming little beach side town in Vietnam for the last three days. It rained nonstop our first couple days, so much so that the river flooded over onto the streets and made for very messy sightseeing. The town of Hoi An is renowned for its tailors and shoemakers who are able to make anything fit to you by simply showing them a picture. If you know anything about me and Melissa, that night train from hell was worth every hour (16 hours to be exact) because we were heading to Eden. Wait.....clothes and shoes.....anything we want.....at ridiculous prices.....sensory overload. We'd actually been researching and discussing what we wanted the whole trip.
- An exhausting experience!! But I felt like a princess walking through the tailor shop, choosing fabrics, colors, sequins and leather, getting my measurements taken, going in for fittings and alterations. The sales women we both had were so lovely and made the whole experience really special. We both walked away with some serious goods which were sending home as soon as we get to Cambodia since we have no room for them in our backpack.
    So that's that.....my most recent adventures, less detailed since I couldn't possibly fit in everything. I've been a reading fiend and managed to finish a cheesy love triangle book, Love the One You're With, a murder mystery, The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo, and have picked up a book I'm seriously loving, The Beach. This book is so fun to read because it takes place in Thailand and is a story involving backpackers. It's like I'm living the book (and yes this is the same book that was made into a movie starring Leonardo Dicaprio).
   Mother Nature has been a real you know what.....earthquake and tsunami in Indonesia, Volcano in Jakarta, flooding in Thailand....basically everywhere we've wanted to go has been hit by some kind of natural disaster. Lay off MN! We were thinking we'd have to curtail our trip to Thailand's islands because of the flooding but just got into touch with someone in Bangkok who assured us the floods aren't affecting that area (PHEW) and Bali is still safe from the volcano's damages (PHEW). So we're off to Cambodia for a tour of Siam Reap.
Byyyeeeee
Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Bali
The chronic- what -als of Narnia

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